Tag Archives: Tops

Twofer: New Look 6190 & Simplicity 2593

22 Jul

Here are two super quick patterns to throw together.

The pants are my second go at New Look 6190. Unlike the khakis, this fabric had a little stretch to it so I only added 1/2 an inch to the all the vertical seam allowances versus an inch on the woven fabric. I didn’t intend to have the elasticity – it was just the by product of fabric shopping in a rush and hoping for the best.

Initially I sewed the pants on my machine with a straight stitch. When I bent down to pin my hem (the joys of fitting and pinning by ones-self) I promptly split the seam on the butt, so I sucked it up and attempted threading my serger with new thread for the first time since I bought it. This step took longer than the entire project from cutting to hem… and I still don’t have it right. But it was enough to make these pants safe for work.

I also added 1 & 1/2 inches to the crotch depth. On the Khaki’s this bought the waist to just below my belly-button. With this fabric it sits just above, don’t ask me why. Still I love the high waist, so no complaints there. These were super comfortable to wear so I know they are going to get a lot of use.

The top is a Cynthia Rowley pattern, Simplicity 2593. The design is pretty simple just a one piece back, one piece front with easing at centre front. The arms holes and neck are bound with fabric bias binding. The design element is the neck band inView A, with is a long twisted tube hand stitched to the neck edge.

I threw this together with some gingham I had hanging around for making muslins. It was definitely wearable but I’m not sold on the design on me. Again, I already know I shouldn’t buy patterns without darts or other shaping but I get sucked in with the idea of simple un-complicated designs. Unfotunately this means it’s a little boxy on me.

I made a Size 20, which gave me 3 and a half inches of ease at the bust, and I lengthened the pattern by 1 and a half inches. I also had a couple of issues with the instructions. When it comes to the arm holes, it asks you to trim off 5/8 inch once the shoulder and side seams are sewn. I couldn’t, for the life of me figure out why it asked you to do that – so I didn’t, which probably doesn’t help the boxy. Also, I found the lack of detail on how to attach the neck band, super frustrating, particularly at 11 o’clock last night when I was stubbornly  hand stitching it on. I know some people on pattern review have made some lovely versions, but I don’t know if this is a keeper for me.

Here’s how I wore these to work:

TOTAL COST (TOP)

Fabric: $8.0 (2m @ $4/m – Spotlight)

Pattern: $7.50

TOTAL: NZ$15.5 / US$11.13

TOTAL COST (PANTS)

Fabric: $24 (2.4m @ $10/m – Spotlight)

Pattern & Thread: $0 (From stash)

Zip: $4.0

TOTAL: NZ$28 / US$20.11

Poet Blouse: McCall’s 6035

18 Jul

Yes! I got it done and even enjoyed it. Believe it or not I haven’t sewn button holes since highschool. Or collars for that matter so it was a bit of a refresher,although I wouldn’t look too closely at either one. This is McCall’s 6035 in View B and the first of my box-o-patterns out of the gate. I was all set to complete View C, with simple tabbed sleeves, when the selfish seamstress posted the blousy ones and inspired me to go with these.

There’s something slightly ridiculous about them that I love and I can’t put my finger on it. I used a slightly sheer swiss-dot cotton blend that I thought was white in the store but is actually an ice-blue shade. It fits pretty well as it comes with different cup-size pieces. The body is a Size 20, D-cup.


I graded out to a Size 22 from the waist to the hem which probably wasn’t necessary as there is plenty of fabric there. I also cut the sleeves in a 22 (20 at the cap) and added 3/4 of an inch to the band. I do a lot of typing at work and I can’t stand that feeling of sleeves being too tight.

Next time, I’m planning to make View C as one only needs so many poet blouses.  I’ll fit it a smidge more under the bust and lengthen it a little (yes, that is my butt-crack paranoia surfacing again). But I’m just so glad to have a button-down shirt that doesn’t gap at the bust or cut off circulation to my hands.

TOTAL COST:

Pattern: $5.6 (McCall’s online)

Fabric: $14.0 (2m @ $7/m – Centrepoint)

Thread: $3.0

Buttons: $2.45 (7 @ 35c each)

TOTAL: NZ$25.05 / US$17.80

Bastille Blouse: Simplicity 2372

15 Jul

Bastille Day was a few days ago but I still thought it was a fitting name for this pretty little red-and-blue print blouse. This was a last chance go at Simplicity 2372. I made the jacket a couple of weeks back and was a bit disappointed with the finished product. I was all set to throw the pattern away if this blouse didn’t suit but, consider it and it’s pretty pleats, redeemed.

I began cutting it out after a long day facilitating an 8 hour group session at work, which in hindsight was not such good thinking on my part. It takes quite a long time as you need to mark all the pleats on the sleeves and neckline and the pattern matching but I got through it, took it over to the machine to begin sewing when insanity struck. I’d lost my right back piece.

I thought I was going nuts – I sew in my lounge/kitchen area that is not that big and I’m the only one here but I couldn’t find it any where. I knew I had definitely I cut it as I had matched the left back to it using the fabulous instructions that Tasia, of sewaholic, had posted a couple of days ago. I went through all my scraps, I went through my drawers. I am not kidding – I actually looked in the fridge thinking maybe in my over-tired brain might have absent-mindedly put it in there. No such luck. All I can think of is that maybe I mindlessly cut the facings out of it. The thing was, this fabric had been in my stash since last year, so no chance of getting more. I went to bed demoralised.

In the morning I had a brainwave – a sacrifice could be made for this blouse. From deep in a box I pulled out the New Look 6180 dress from the last post. I hadn’t worn it more than once in the time since I’d made it so I removed the zip from the center back, ripped the seam open, took a deep breath and crossed my fingers that enough fabric remained to cut the missing piece.

Yes, thanks to those unflattering insubstantial bust darts, the project was back on.

The top has a centre front and centre back seam so I matched the front pieces but added 2 inches to each back piece so I could turn it into a back fastened blouse. I found some navy snaps which looked interesting and I’d never used them before. It was a bit of an experiment but I’m happy with how it came out.

For each snap there are four parts: a backing piece with sharp prongs, a stud, a socket, and a right-side piece with more sharp prongs. The set came with a double ended tool for application.

First I measured out the placement. I had 8 snaps and I marked each one with a pin.

Then I placed the backing piece under the fabric, allowing the prongs to poke through. I found it helps to spread the fabric taut with one hand.

You use the slim end of the tool to force the fabric onto the prongs.

The stud is placed on top.

With the big end of the tool stabilising the stud you whack the end a good 5 or so times with a hammer.

Ta-da! Repeat on the other edge with facing and socket.

I love this fabric and I’m so glad the pattern wasn’t a waste of time.

TOTAL COST:

Fabric: $0 (from stash – originally from Spotlight)

Pattern: $0 (from stash – previous outing here)

Snaps: $4.99

Total Cost: NZ$4.99 / US$3.60

Yoke

22 Jun

For as long as I’ve been sewing I only ever seemed to make dresses and the occasional skirt, the reason behind this escapes me as I swear, 80% of the time, I’m to be found in comfy tops and trousers. As part of committing to sewing more and also wearing more of what I sew I decided to start with Simplicity 2594 (View A).


It’s also the first time I’ve sewn anything with a yoke, so I wasn’t sure how it would go but it turns out it was all good. View A has a bias cut front and back with the yoke cut on the grain. After checking out PatternReview.com, it seemed that this one has a lot of ease built in so cut it in a size 20, and went without a full bust adjustment. Does it look like the pattern envelope?

Pretty close. I chose a very light weight cotton I picked up cheaply as I wanted to try this more as a wearable muslin but it’s thin enough that it drapes ok, even with my ample bosom. The instructions were pretty straight forward, but with a heads up that step 17 is incorrect I just went with my gut and it came together quick and easy – even the yoke and back gathers.

This is definitely going to be one of my staples, I even picked up some lovely dotted cotton in both white and turquoise this afternoon but I was having a daft moment and left it at the supermarket checkout on the way back to the car. Fingers crossed I can collect it tomorrow!

Total Costs:

Pattern $7.50 (On sale)

Fabric $9.20 (2.3m @ $4/m – Centrepoint Fabrics)

Thread $4.50

TOTAL: NZ$21.50 / US$14.80